Saddle stitching

Saddle stitching is a hand technique using two needles and a single waxed thread, sewn through the same holes from both sides. It is slower than machine stitching but far stronger, and it is the method most heavy leather goods and thick uppers were built with in the first place.

Where a machine can't reach

Bags, belts, and multi-layer leather like welts and heel counters are often too thick or too curved for a sewing machine. Saddle stitching lets a cobbler repair these by hand instead.

It fails one stitch at a time, not all at once

Because each stitch is independent, a saddle-stitched seam that starts to go usually needs only the damaged section resewn, not the whole seam replaced.